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banyeo at dusk

march 27DSC_0987

photo essay on masks:
http://www.theatlantic.com/photo/2015/05/the-masks-we-wear/394121/

to read:

via wikipedia

Albion’s Seed: Four British Folkways in America by David Hackett Fischer (1989)
four different migrations from england that shaped america:
+puritans to new england
+southern english to virginia
+quakers to the delaware
+anglo-scottish bordeland inhabitants to the american backgrountry and appalachia.

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three temples

buddha’s birthay.
we travel to three temples as it is tradition:
we start in 백연화사 baekyeonhwasa,

DSC_4543we eat bibimbap and watermelon.

DSC_4546under the serene stare of a thousand golden buddhas.

DSC_4552we walk under the shadows of a thousand rainbow lanterns

DSC_4561we travel south to gaya-dong. we hike up to 선암사 seonamgsa.

DSC_4558guardian pets

DSC_4587we sit down to makeoli, tofu and kimchi on an industrial wire spool table.

DSC_4632we drive towards mandeok. up dusty roads. we reach 석불사 sokbulsa hidden up in the hills that divide western and eastern busan.

DSC_4630we play throw-the-coin at the pagoda.

DSC_4642carvings of two heavenly kings and buddhas.

DSC_4645a guardian .

DSC_4684we ride east. from the road we see western busan, mandeok, deokcheon, the nakdonggang and the floodplains.

DSC_4687we cross the pass into the east of the white city. we find a view of sajik and the yeonsan neighborhood, baesan hill and the distant towers of marine city.

happy birthday buddha,

happy blated bday bob.

girl from the north country fair

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gaya land

i rescue old coronado in gimhae. he looks dusty and melancholic. i push him up the hill to a daelim repair shop. the mechanic is just coming back from his lunch break. he has a tiny paper cup with sugary coffee in one hand. he asks me what the problem is. carburetor. he tells me they don’t make carburetors for my scooter model anymore. he motions with his hand to follow him. we go out to the yard next to his shop. he points to two scooters like mine propped against a wall. they look dusty and sad. the mechanic makes the throat slash sign. is die. he takes a sip of his coffee. i’ll look around for a second opinion.

a few blocks up the hill i find another daelim mechanic. he tells me he doesn’t have a carburetor either but he opens up coronado to investigate. he tells me the problem may be simpler… and more embarrassing. he is very kind and lets me go without charge.

DSC_4439i drive coronado up the hill to explore gaya land, an abandoned amusement park in the outskirts of gimhae.   i park my scooter and scout the area. there are yellow flowers, older women picking vegetables in a community garden, stylized kimchi pots, and a dead animal that’s been blackened by the sun for weeks. in the distance i see gimhae and the floodplain of the nakdonggang. further southeast hundreds of white apartment buildings at the foothills of the mountainous spine of busan.

DSC_4436nestled in the green hills in front of me, sticking out of the thicket like a ceremonial mesoamerican structure built in honor of the sun-god, a bone-colored ferris wheel. i follow a deteriorated road covered by trees. i cross a small bridge and squeeze myself past some barricades.  soon i reach the gates of gaya land. i take a few pictures but i notice i  only have 10 pictures left on my sd card.  i look through the card to delete the photos i don’t need. that’s when i hear the dogs barking. i look up and above the entrance steps i see them. they look pissed off. i turn around and start walking away. i hear a metal pipe falling near by. i assume somebody must have thrown it in my direction, some sort of squatting dokkebi or a cranky old guard. i shall return, gaya land.

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white death in the white war

alpini in the italian front. 1915. from the Bibliothèque nationale de France via wikimedia commons

preserved bodies of wwi soldiers appear as glaciers retreat in the austrian and italian alps.

wwi battles between the italian alpini, and the austrian kaiserschützen (imperial infantry) in trentino and southern tyrol.

use of ice-trenches, avalanche warfare with mortars.

bodies and artifacts are emerging in the presana glacier.

book: the white war. life and death on the italian front, 1915-1919 (2008) by mark thompson

peio area where some of the battles were fought.

the highest front lines in history. 12,000 ft.

trentino grande guerra museum

motherboard article global warming is thawing out the frozen corpses of a forgotten wwi battle

italian front wikipedia article

trento, capital of the autonomous province of  trentino.

marmolada 3,343 m /10,968 ft. highest mountain in the dolomites

see gardena pass